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How to Grow Amaryllis for Christmas: Planting, Care and Making It Bloom Again

Red amaryllis flower in full bloom

Few plants bring as much colour into a grey December as an amaryllis. One plain-looking bulb, a pot and a bright windowsill, and a few weeks later you have giant trumpet flowers in red, white, pink or striped, just in time for Christmas.

The best part: an amaryllis is one of the easiest bulbs to grow indoors. And if you treat it right after flowering, the same bulb can bloom again every winter for many years. Here is everything you need to know, from buying the bulb to getting it to flower a second time.

Amaryllis or Hippeastrum? A Quick Name Check

The bulb sold everywhere as "amaryllis" is botanically a Hippeastrum, a plant from the tropical and subtropical regions of Central and South America. The "true" Amaryllis (Amaryllis belladonna) is a South African plant that flowers in late summer. For your windowsill it makes no difference: the care below is for the Hippeastrum you find in every garden centre and supermarket in Europe from October on.

When to Plant for Christmas Flowers

An amaryllis usually flowers 6 to 10 weeks after planting. Large bulbs and warmer rooms are on the faster side.

🗓️ Timing rule: to have flowers for Christmas, plant your bulb in early to mid November. Planting a second bulb two or three weeks later gives you flowers well into January.

How to Choose a Good Bulb

  • Size matters: the bigger the bulb, the more flower stalks it will produce. Large bulbs (around 26 cm circumference or more) often give two stalks.
  • Firm and heavy: squeeze it gently. It should feel firm, with no soft or mouldy spots.
  • Healthy roots: a few dry but intact roots at the base are a good sign.
  • Waxed bulbs: the wax-coated bulbs sold as gifts need no soil and no water, but they are usually thrown away after flowering. If you want to keep your plant for years, choose a normal bulb.

How to Plant an Amaryllis: Step by Step

1. Soak the roots

Place the base of the bulb (only the roots, not the bulb itself) in lukewarm water for a few hours. This wakes the roots up.

2. Pick a snug pot

Amaryllis likes a tight fit. Choose a heavy pot only 2 to 3 cm wider than the bulb on each side, with a drainage hole. A heavy pot (clay or ceramic) stops the tall plant from tipping over.

3. Plant it high

Use normal potting soil, ideally mixed with a little sand or perlite for drainage. Set the bulb so that the top third stays above the soil. Burying it completely can cause rot.

4. Water once, then wait

Water lightly after planting and then keep the soil only barely moist until you see green growth. Too much water before the roots are active is the number one reason bulbs rot.

Red and white amaryllis flowers in a pot

Care While It Grows and Flowers

  • Light: as bright as possible. A south or west windowsill is perfect in winter.
  • Warmth: normal room temperature (around 18–22 °C) gets it growing. Once the flowers open, a slightly cooler spot makes them last longer.
  • Turn the pot: the stalk leans towards the light. Give the pot a quarter turn every few days so it grows straight.
  • Water: once growth starts, water when the top of the soil is dry. Always empty the saucer.
  • Support: tall stalks with several flowers can get top-heavy. A thin bamboo stick helps.

🌺 Longer flowers tip: carefully remove the yellow pollen sacks (anthers) from the open flowers with tweezers. The flowers often last several days longer, and the pollen can't stain your tablecloth.

After Flowering: How to Make It Bloom Again

Most people throw the bulb away after Christmas. Don't! With this yearly rhythm, your amaryllis can flower again next winter.

Winter to spring: grow the leaves

Cut off the faded flower stalk about 5 cm above the bulb, but keep the leaves. They feed the bulb for next year. Keep it on a bright windowsill, water regularly and give it liquid fertiliser every two weeks.

Summer: outside if you can

After the last frost (in Germany usually after mid May), the pot can go outside to a bright spot with some afternoon shade. Keep watering and feeding.

Late summer: the rest period

From late August or September, stop watering and feeding. Let the leaves turn yellow and dry off, then cut them away. Keep the bulb dry in a cool, dark place (around 10–13 °C) for about 8 to 10 weeks.

Autumn: wake it up

In November, refresh the top layer of soil (or repot every 2–3 years), bring the pot back into warmth and light, water once, and the cycle starts again.

Common Problems

  • Only leaves, no flowers: the bulb didn't store enough energy (leaves cut too early, too little light or fertiliser in spring and summer) or it skipped the rest period.
  • Soft, smelly bulb: too much water, usually before the roots were active. Unfortunately a rotten bulb can't be saved.
  • Very long, floppy stalk: too little light or too much warmth. Move it closer to the window.
  • Red streaks on the bulb or leaves: often a fungal problem (red blotch). Remove affected leaves, water from below and keep the bulb neck dry.

⚠️ Pets and children: all parts of the amaryllis, especially the bulb, are poisonous if eaten. Keep it out of reach of cats, dogs and small children.

Quick Amaryllis Checklist

  1. Buy a large, firm bulb in October or November.
  2. Soak the roots, plant in a snug, heavy pot with the top third above the soil.
  3. Water sparingly until green shoots appear.
  4. Bright window, room temperature, turn the pot often.
  5. After flowering, cut the stalk but keep and feed the leaves.
  6. Rest the bulb dry and cool for 8 to 10 weeks from late summer.
  7. Restart it in November for flowers next Christmas.

Final Thoughts

An amaryllis is the perfect winter project: almost no work, a big show, and a plant you can keep for decades if you follow its yearly rhythm. Plant one now, and you will have your own Christmas flowers in just a few weeks.

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