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How to Grow Amaryllis for Christmas: Planting, Care and Getting It to Bloom Again

Bright red amaryllis flowers in full bloom
Winter · Indoor Flowers

Plant an Amaryllis Now, Enjoy Giant Flowers at Christmas

One bulb, a small pot and a sunny window are all you need for huge, trumpet-shaped blooms in the darkest weeks of the year.

Few plants give you so much for so little effort. An amaryllis bulb planted in autumn sends up a thick stem and opens four or more enormous flowers just when the garden outside is grey and bare. That's why you see them everywhere in shops and markets from November onwards.

The good news: an amaryllis isn't a one-season plant. With the right care after flowering, the same bulb can bloom again for many years and even grow bigger over time.

Amaryllis or Hippeastrum?

The big bulbs sold as "amaryllis" are actually Hippeastrum, a plant from South America. The true Amaryllis belladonna is a different plant from South Africa that flowers outdoors in late summer. Everyone, including garden centres, uses the name amaryllis for both, so don't let the label confuse you. This guide is about the indoor Christmas bulb.

When to Plant for Christmas Flowers

Most amaryllis bulbs flower around 6 to 10 weeks after planting. For blooms at Christmas, plant from mid-October to early November. Want flowers all winter? Plant a new bulb every two weeks until December.

Simple rule: the bigger the bulb, the more flower stems. A large, firm bulb often produces two stems with four or more flowers each.

Choosing a Good Bulb

Firm and heavy: squeeze it gently. It should feel solid, like a fresh onion, with no soft spots.
No mould: avoid bulbs with grey fuzz, dark wet patches or a bad smell.
Healthy roots: a few dry, pale roots at the base are fine and a good sign.
Size matters: bulbs are sold by circumference. 26 to 30 cm or more gives the best show.
Waxed amaryllis: bulbs dipped in coloured wax need no water and look great as a gift, but they use up all their energy in one flowering. Enjoy them, but don't expect them to bloom again.

How to Plant Your Amaryllis in 5 Steps

Close-up of a red amaryllis flower

Each stem carries several huge, trumpet-shaped flowers.

Step 1: Wake Up the Roots

Soak just the base and roots of the bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours. Keep the bulb itself dry.

Step 2: Pick a Snug Pot

Amaryllis like a tight fit. Choose a heavy pot only about 2 to 3 cm wider than the bulb on each side, with a drainage hole. A heavy pot stops the tall flowers from tipping over.

Step 3: Plant High

Use good potting soil and plant the bulb so that the top third sits above the soil. Press the soil firmly around it.

Step 4: Water Once, Then Wait

Water well once, then let the soil almost dry out. Until you see green growth, water only very lightly. Too much water before the roots are active is the most common way to rot a bulb.

Step 5: Light and Warmth

Put the pot in a bright, warm spot at around 18 to 22°C. Once the stem appears, water regularly whenever the top of the soil feels dry.

Keep it straight: the stem grows towards the light. Turn the pot a quarter turn every few days so it doesn't lean.

Make the Flowers Last Longer

White amaryllis flower with green throat and yellow stamens

White varieties look elegant on a winter table.

Move it to a cooler spot: once the buds open, a cooler room (around 16°C) and indirect light can keep the flowers going for weeks.
Support tall stems: a bamboo cane and soft tie stop heavy flowers from snapping.
Remove the pollen: gently pulling off the yellow anthers can make flowers last a little longer and stops pollen staining clothes and tablecloths.
As a cut flower: amaryllis also lasts well in a vase. Cut the stem when the first bud starts to open.

After Flowering: Getting It to Bloom Again

This is where most people throw the bulb away. Don't. The leaves that grow after flowering are what refill the bulb with energy for next year.

Winter to spring: cut off faded flowers and, once the stem turns yellow, cut it about 5 cm above the bulb. Keep the leaves.
Spring to summer: keep it in a bright spot, water regularly and feed every two weeks with a liquid fertiliser. After the last frost it can spend the summer outside in a sheltered, partly sunny place.
Late summer: stop watering and feeding. Let the leaves yellow and die back, and store the pot in a cool, dark, dry place (around 10 to 15°C).
Rest for 8 to 12 weeks: then remove the dry leaves, refresh the top soil, water once and bring it back into the light. The cycle starts again.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pink and white striped amaryllis flowers

Striped and double varieties need exactly the same care.

Burying the whole bulb. Keep the top third above the soil to avoid rot.
Too big a pot. Lots of wet soil around the bulb stays soggy and causes rot.
Overwatering before growth starts. Wait for the green tip.
Cutting the leaves after flowering. No leaves means no energy, and no flowers next year.
Skipping the rest period. Without a dry rest, many bulbs only make leaves.
Pets and children: all parts of the amaryllis, especially the bulb, are toxic if eaten and can cause vomiting and stomach upset in cats, dogs and people. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and small children.

Quick Amaryllis Checklist

  1. Buy a large, firm bulb with no soft spots or mould
  2. Plant mid-October to early November for Christmas
  3. Use a heavy pot only slightly wider than the bulb
  4. Keep the top third of the bulb above the soil
  5. Water lightly until the green tip appears
  6. Bright, warm spot (18 to 22°C), turn the pot often
  7. Keep the leaves and feed after flowering
  8. Give it a dry, dark rest of 8 to 12 weeks in late summer

Final Thoughts

An amaryllis is one of the easiest and most rewarding plants you can grow indoors. Plant it now, keep it bright and don't drown it, and you'll have spectacular flowers for the holidays. Look after the leaves afterwards, and the same bulb will come back bigger and better every winter. It also makes a wonderful, living Christmas gift.

Continue Reading

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